“Black-tie”, “smart-casual”, “elegant” – how to master the complicated social machinery spinning beneath a hand-engraved, clothing-related injunction on a gilt-edged, 480gsm woven stock card?
“Black-tie dress code” is up there with “black ice” in the terror stakes. It rivals “black hole” with its power to confuse and befuddle. As for “black sheep”? It’s easy to feel like one, if you manage to confound a collective decision to dress in a highly unambiguous manner for a terrifyingly specific occasion.
In a world where attire is becoming increasingly casual across the board, dress code dilemmas are ten-a-penny. Fresh hell: the unhelpful cipher that simply serves to confuse – “evening”, “business casual”, “hipster formal”, “a touch of glamour” stated in tiny italics – and gives no hint as to what is de rigueur.
Even Diana Vreeland, that legendary arbiter of taste, is no help here. While her aphorism that “un-shined shoes are the end of civilisation” still holds, her advice on black-tie dress code events is less constructive: “The best time to leave a party is when the party’s just beginning. There’s no drink that kills except the drink that you didn’t want to take, as the saying goes, and there’s no hour that kills except the hour you stayed after you wanted to go home.
So, we know when to leave. But how to arrive – and in what look? Here’s our guide to decoding the black-tie dress code on your party invites this season:
What does black-tie dress code actually mean?
“A black bow tie worn with a dinner jacket,” the dictionary helpfully posits. “Less formal than white tie… worn for dinners, parties, and balls, as well as some Season events such as Glyndebourne,” adds Debrett’s. It all hinges, however, on the host. One man’s “dress to impress” is another man’s “barely-there Balmain minidress”. Which may well be impressive – but entirely wrong for a charity gala. In the first instance, don’t be afraid to text your host for clarification on what level of formality they are expecting their guests to respect, as well as intel on what they themselves are planning to wear.
What’s the best way to navigate black-tie dress code?
Simply put, “black tie” for women best translates as “long”, and in an evening-appropriate fabric, such as velvet, chiffon, silk, or lace. A cocktail dress – shorter, possibly ritzier – might cut it if your host is of a relaxed nature (or if the dress is, say, a dramatic Alexander McQueen style), but it’s best to assume that a floor-sweeping number (or a tuxedo situation) is expected.
How can I predict how smart an event will be?
There will be clues. Firstly, consider the invitation medium. The thicker the woven stock of your pigeon post (and the more fanciful the calligraphy and the first-class stamp), the smarter the event. If the summons came in digitally, via Facebook or WhatsApp, you can relax a little. The exception is Paperless Post – just because the invite dropped in via email doesn’t mean it’s not a floor-length affair. The medium of text message should also be respected: it’s a method that suggests, “I’m so laid-back with my invitations”, but means “rhinestones are encouraged”.
What’s the best way to navigate black-tie dress code?
Simply put, “black tie” for women best translates as “long”, and in an evening-appropriate fabric, such as velvet, chiffon, silk, or lace. A cocktail dress – shorter, possibly ritzier – might cut it if your host is of a relaxed nature (or if the dress is, say, a dramatic Alexander McQueen style), but it’s best to assume that a floor-sweeping number (or a tuxedo situation) is expected.
How can I predict how smart an event will be?
There will be clues. Firstly, consider the invitation medium. The thicker the woven stock of your pigeon post (and the more fanciful the calligraphy and the first-class stamp), the smarter the event. If the summons came in digitally, via Facebook or WhatsApp, you can relax a little. The exception is Paperless Post – just because the invite dropped in via email doesn’t mean it’s not a floor-length affair. The medium of text message should also be respected: it’s a method that suggests, “I’m so laid-back with my invitations”, but means “rhinestones are encouraged”.
Can I wear black?
Absolutely. There’s a reason why everyone else is wearing it. Just make sure your accessories are ice-breaker status – your host will appreciate the effort you’ve made provided you’re wearing a Phoebe Philo-era Céline crystal collar. And if all else fails, buy a cluster of diamanté brooches, and pile them on to lapels and necklines – or in messy, bed-head hair. Tell everyone they’re heirlooms and prepare to sparkle.
