21 Espresso: The Restaurant
This is one of the best kept secrets in Sydney, except for those of us who have been dining there for decades. An authentic Hungarian restaurant with limited seating, though there is overflow outdoor seating now.
Set in cosmopolitan Double Bay, the restaurant was original opened by John Schiffer in 1958 (of Hunter’s Lodge fame), then taken over by his son George and now operated by George’s son Michael and his sister.
Nothing has changed. I vaguely recall an argument some years back about the coleslaw not being an original Hungarian dish. When it was taken off the menu there was a serious revolt. That decision didn’t last.
The servings here are not for the faint hearted. The small schnitzel, chips and coleslaw is our favourite. The normal serving comes with two massive schnitzel’s that really would need a hearty appetite.
You can get chicken or veal (wiener) schnitzel. There are many other original dishes such a goulash, creamed spinach and strudel. When asked about the old cherry soup, George’s daughter indicated that it was disgusting and would never grace the menu again. We all agreed.
When we arrived at 7.00pm there was only one other table vacant. Many people of Hungarian descent were there. It is a long narrow room, with a bow shaped glass front. It is a bit like being on a boat. If you can get a table near the front window you get to see the passing parade of Double Pay glitterati.
With so many people packed into the restaurant and with so much hubbub you would think that the service would be slow. Not so. Service is brisk, friendly, and very efficient. Meals arrive with little fuss, wine and beverage arrive in the blink of an eye. The staff are very experienced.
Cocktails
We all had a beer, but they are well equipped to handle the most exotic of tastes.
Soup
With winter on us you might want to try the matzo dumpling soup, the chicken noodle soup or perhaps the Ukrainian borscht (beetroot soup).
Entrees
Lamb brains (not for me thanks), grilled mushrooms, grilled halloumi with pineapple and pesto or garlic prawns.
Main Course
The schnitzels are the go to meal at this restaurant. Perfectly cooked. You have a choice of sides such as creamed spinach, chips, mash or salad. Mrs E ordered a small wiener schnitzel with coleslaw. I order a small chicken schnitzel with creamed spinach. One serving of chips to share.
There are many other choices. The Hungarian Goulash is a favourite – also the cabbage rolls – savoury mince wrapped in blanched cabbage leaves, served with sour cream and mashed potato.
The menu is divided into various categories.
Chicken – chicken breast with a piri piri sauce, chicken in mushrooms and chicken livers. I recall that there used to be a chicken Kiev – but it seems to have disappeared.
Veal – apart from the schnitzel there are veal cutlets (crumbed with creamed spinach), veal Bakonyi (in a mushroom sauce) and veal fillets.
Eye Fillet Steak – With peppercorn, mushroom or steak diane sauce. Sirloin with honey mustard sauce and Fillet Mignon.
House Specials
Veal Goulash with nokedli. Paprika Chicken in Hungarian spicy sauce. Crispy roast duck with red cabbage and Rosemary Lamb shanks with vegetables.
Seafood
The ubiquitous barramundi and Atlantic salmon, but also great prawn cutlets.
Salads & Pasta
There are many salads and pasta dishes also available on the menu.
Dessert
There is much to choose from. Importantly 21 still does crepes. Most restaurants, including Beppi’s, have taken this dish off the menu to my dismay. But not café 21. You can get strawberry pancakes, plain with lemon juice and another 9 options – bliss.
Of course there is the home made apple or cherry strudel, to die for. There is also gelato, affogato and chilled chestnut puree flavoured with cognac. Yummy!
Wine
There is a reasonably priced wine list. We ordered a pinot grigio – $65.
I had a coffee with cognac. I am weak.
The Review – 4 Stars
This is a friendly, noisy, brilliant restaurant. There is a reliable consistency to the menu, but with many choices so it never goes stale.
There are dishes on this menu that are not available anywhere else.
Service is brisk, so you won’t be there long. Lingering is not recommended if you arrive early. This restaurant survives on its turnover rate.
The food remains constant, there have been very few variations in the menu over the years (with the exception
On a chilly winter evening I can think of very few places I would like to go to for a good meal other than café 21.
