Beppi’s is an institution, if it isn’t on the list of heritage sites for NSW it should be. It has been at the same location since 1956. This gives it an authenticity and history that most restaurateurs would die for.
The Restaurant
As I write this review, I have in front of me Beppi Polese’s biography – “A Life in 3 Courses”, with some kind words from Beppi and Norma to me on the inner sleeve. This book is definitely worth a read. It really puts into context the extraordinary life and achievements of the late Beppi Polese; from partisan fighter in the Italian Alps of WWII to doyen of Sydney restaurant society. It could be argued that Beppli created fine Italian dining in Sydney or, at the least, created the flair and refinement that it so deserved.
On the inner sleeve of Beppi’s book, is a photograph of a young and handsome Beppi, with his beautiful wife Norma, with young son Mark, in their newly opened restaurant on the corner of Yurong and Stanley Streets. Both Beppi and Norma have passed on, but Mark continues the tradition of fine dining, impeccable service and exquisite food that is the hallmark of Beppi’s.
The restaurant is comprised of a number of discrete areas. The front rooms have natural light spilling over the fresh linen tablecloths and surrounded by fresh cut flowers, further in you have a large room in which the walls are covered in bottles of superb quality wines, slowly maturing. Off this room, there are 3 private dining rooms, ranging from an intimate room for 6 to a large room for over 20 persons. It gets progressively darker and more interesting as you move into the rooms out back surrounded by countless bottles of fine French, Italian and Australian wines.
I was joined at lunch by 2 old friends, whom I had not seen for some time. One of whom regaled us with the tale of his first visit to Beppi’s, as a young schoolboy with his parents, in the year of its opening, 1956. I managed to see some other old friends who had the same idea as us and were dining either for business or pleasure (or both).
Cocktails
It is a classical Italian restaurant so Campari and soda for all. Excellent and refreshing.
Entree
Fresh grissini and homemade crispy lavash bread (and other fresh breads) are already at the table with dried tomato, olive pesto and fig pesto.
We ordered fresh oysters to start with. They were delicious and came served with fresh butter and bread.
There are, of course, many excellent entrees on the menu. One of my favourites, in season, is the fried New Zealand white bait. New Zealand white bait is a totally different fish to that found in Australian waters. No Bluff Oysters though.
Being a classical Italian ristorante, there are many other classical dishes on offer – including grilled calamari, tuna carpaccio (served with roast capsicum), pippi’s and mussels in seafood broth, zucchini flowers (filled with ricotta, basil and porcini mushrooms) , crab and zucchini cakes with chili – plus many more.
For the vegetarian – parmigiana di Melanzane – roasted eggplant layered with mozzarella, tomato & basil topped with parmesan & baked.
Primi Piatti
Two of us selected the special of the day – spaghetti with fresh prawns in a Neapolitan sauce as our first courses – fresh restaurant made pasta served with fresh prawns and a light sauce.
Other pasta dishes include gnocchi with ricotta & spinach (served with tomato & basil sauce); tagliolini with WA jumbo scampi tossed in garlic, butter & parsley; ravioli filled with pumpkin & amaretti served with burnt butter, sage & parmesan; marinara Squid Ink chitarra (an egg pasta) cooked in a paper bag with prawns, mussels, vongole, fish & chilli in a tomato sauce (one of my favourites); tagliolini pasta made with chilli, served with braised duck & peas; gnocchi potato dumplings with Gorgonzola, Asiago & a mixed cheese sauce or with a Tomato & Basil sauce and linguine with Beppi’s meat ragú & creamy burrata.
Note: You can order your pasta gluten free if you wish.
Second Course
There are plenty of meat and seafood courses if you wish to avoid the pasta or add a second course.
In our case, one of my guests and I ordered the veal saltimbocca. This has been a staple at Beppi’s since the first time I visited the ristorante in the 70’s. Beppi’s Saltimbocca is a milk fed veal scaloppine folded with San Daniele prosciutto, asiago cheese, sage & white wine sauce & garlic broccolini. This is probably the best scallopini I have had in Australia, with the exception of Grossi Florentino in Melbourne. In years past Beppi farmed his own veal. Mark wasn’t there at lunch so I couldn’t ask him if the tradition continues.
The scallopini goes well with a side dish of creamed spinach (it is actually silver beet orchard not English spinach). You should ask to put some garlic with it.
Our friend ordered grilled WA scampi. Succulent large scampi grilled with a light butter sauce. This is a magnificent meal if you have never tried scampi before. A real treat.
You can also choose from angus beef, pork belly, osso bucco, and spatchcock.
The seafood includes grilled snapper fillet served with Sicilian olives, white zucchini, cherry tomatoes, white wine, garlic & butter; jumbo prawns and a fish of the day.
Dolci – Dessert
Regrettably, they no longer do crepes suzette (probably not Italian enough for the purists), but they have a sensationally light and airy zabaglione, an affogato with Frangelico and espresso coffee, a lemon soufflé and a selection of homemade gelato.
There is also an excellent selection of Italian cheeses from the Veneto, Piedmonte and Tuscany regions.
Wine
There is a very extensive wine list at Beppi’s or you can just wander over and look at the wines stacked all around you in timber frames.
As this restaurant is regularly attended by the rich and famous, there are wines which accommodate the most discerning palates – and wallet, however, there are also very good wines which are quite moderately priced.
In our case we ordered a 2018 Venica Jesera from Collio. This was a refreshing and well-balanced pinot grigio – moderately priced ($78) for a ristorante of this stature.
The Review – 4 ½ Stars
This is an exceptionally good restaurant. The food remains constant, there are little variations in the menu over the years (with the exception of the missing crepe suzette). The service is impeccable, and the décor is truly original.
Many regard this ristorante as a special occasion venue and I can see why, it has history and elegance. As an added novelty you can actually hear your guests talking at table – you can have a polite conversation without straining over the hubbub of other guests yelling to be heard.
Equally you can have a delightful lunch here – share some scampi and have a main course only. There are many reasonably priced wines to choose from.
I think many lesser quality restaurants have now raised their priced to Beppi levels, but they cannot compete for ambience and style – or reliable quality. Beppi’s prices have stayed relatively stable. So, it no longer seems like the expensive restaurant it once seemed to be. Having said that, the entrée prices are getting a bit high.
Beppi’s is not fashionable, it has no tricky pretences – it is a beautiful and elegant Italian restaurant of the old school, where the likes of Frank Sinatra, Sophia Loren, Mick Jagger and Elton John have graced their tables. There are precious few of these places left in Sydney. Don’t miss a meal here.
Beppi’s Restaurant
Address: 21 Yurong Street, East Sydney NSW 2010
Telephone: (02) 9360 4558
Website: https://www.beppis.com.au/
