Margaret: Neil Perry’s new venture was delayed due to lockdown, but it’s now in full swing. It was our wedding anniversary (46 years thank you!) and we were really looking forward to this. We were not disappointed. There were three of us.
The restaurant was packed on the Sunday night we went. We could only get a booking for 6.30pm. But that turned out to be very good as it was easy to get a parking spot nearby.
Margaret, named after Neil’s mother, is an elegant and sophisticated addition to the Sydney dining scene. Its interior is reminiscent of a New York fine dining noshery (Le Bernadin et al) – it has clean lines with all of the kitchen staff on show. Neil was there on the night we attended, as was his wife Samantha (looking supremely stylish in a long black gown). The kitchen crew were all focussed on their respective tasks, but there was laughter as well. Everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves.
Our waiter was Marcel, he was a familiar face from another City restaurant. The service was spot on. Not rushed but not so slow that you wanted to ring the restaurant to take your order. As with many new restaurants there was some noise. However, it didn’t match the outrageous decibels of Chiswick where you need to text your guests to find out what they were saying.
The Menu
The menu appeared to have a touch of all of Neil’s other fine dining ventures. There was a little bit of Blue Water Char Grill, Rockpool, XO and Rockpool Bar and Grill on the menu. However, the menu was not loaded with overpriced selections. Sure, you could spend big if you wanted, but if you were a young couple you could have an excellent 2 course meal without breaking the bank. The wine list followed this theme. I am growing exceedingly tired of wine lists which have overpriced wines with no pedigree or flavour. Not so here. You could purchase a very good Trentino pinot grigio for a reasonable price but also a premium Boardeaux or Burgundy if your palate, and wallet, were minded. Also, a fine selection of Australian wines was available.
There is an open char grill which was used extensively for grilling the various seafood and meat selections. Vegetarian options were available and they were tempting.
Cocktails
We ordered 1) Pineapple Daiquiri 2) Negroni and 3) a Grey Goose Martini. All were exceptional. The Martini was mixed perfectly to my order.
Starter
We shared a dozen Merimbula natural oysters. Merimbula and Wallis Lake are, in my view, the best Sydney Rock Oysters. Ours were large, plump and fresh.
Entrée
We opted for the char grill selections: King Brown Mushrooms with Salted Chilli, Chinese Olive and Preserved Radish Paste; Miso Glazed Corner Inlet Southern Calamari with Kimchi Salad & Spencer Gulf King Prawns with Roast Pepper Salsa. All were cooked to perfection. Servings were generous.
Main Course
Once again, the char grill called: Ben’s Coral Trout with XO Butter (2) and Bruce’s King George Whiting with Lemon and Margaret Cobram Estate Hojiblanca.
Sides of Wentworth’s Twice Cooked Crisp and Creamy Potatoes and Marinated Cucumber Salad with Yoghurt Dressing and Nutmeg.
Really, everything was as good as you could want. The Coral Trout was plump and juicy, the Whiting was easily the best I have ever tasted. The sides were superb.
Wine List
The Margaret wine list is extensive. It has something for everyone, which I find very refreshing. We opted for a very nice Chablis. Our initial choice of Montrachet was not available in the year that we ordered unfortunately. But no complaints. As a cheaper option the Chablis was excellent.
Dessert
After all of the above, dessert was proving problematic, however, your reviewer persevered for the sake of journalistic integrity. We shared one of Neil’s Flourless Chocolate Cake with Whipped Cream, and a scoop of Praline ice cream.
A lovely Calvados topped off the evening. No coffees or teas.
The Review – 5 Stars
It is extremely difficult to find any fault with this restaurant. Every aspect of it seems to have been given meticulous thought. It was a pleasure to watch the kitchen crew, concentrating, discussing options, and making the odd joke. To see Neil in his element – giving direction, clapping his hands to motivate, and engaging with his wife as maitre d was very encouraging.
The only issue is with the slight noise level. But the days of Le Triannon have passed. This is the new norm.
MARGARET
30-36 Bay Street Double Bay, NSW.
Telephone: (02) 9068 8888
